No one can escape the 1970s in 2015. Crushed velvet, pink psychedelic zip-up boots, long collars and gilets reminiscent of the first Woodstock were seen at Chanel, Pucci, Gucci, Sonia Rykiel and Saint Laurent, while the ultra-modern Stella McCartney produced the season’s essential item – a folk-inspired spaghetti-strapped dress. Long or short, crocheted or diaphanous, the only rule is to include all the colours of the rainbow. Bell -bottoms have also ballooned back into fashion – but tripping over them could hinder the spread of peace and love.
As seen at: Gucci, Pucci, Chanel, Dries Van Noten, Valentino, Louis Vuitton, Prada.
From left to right: Gucci s/s 2015 (Vittorio Zunino Celotto/Getty Images); Stella McCartney s/s 2015 (Pascal Le Segretain/Getty Images); Saint Laurent s/s 2015 (Pascal Le Segretain/Getty Images)
After seasons where leather has lorded it over the catwalks, designers are now exploring the even softer attractions of suede – another subtle nod to the 1970s. Expect day dresses in safari hues of moss-green and butterscotch inspired by US designers Ralph Lauren and Jason Wu, but the adventurous can wear skirts, shorts and boots in shades of green apple, lilac and brown – or all three at once. Pucci’s pink suede shorts are likely to be much copied downmarket, but the poster girl for rawhide in 2015 is Cara Deevingne, channelling her inner cowgirl at Saint Laurent, in a tan suede bomber jacket and leather mini skirt.
As seen at: Ralph Lauren, Jason Wu, Derek Lam, Chloé, Saint Laurent, Pucci
From left to right: Gucci s/s 2015 (Vittorio Zunino Celotto/Getty Images); Pucci s/s 2015 (Pier Marco Tacca/Getty Images); Saint Laurent s/s 2015 (Pascal Le Segretain/Getty Images)
Blooming and beautiful
Bad news if you’ve grown tired of seasons of sports luxe and District 13 jumpsuits – they have by no means disappeared. But utility chic is finally being balanced by some lovely blooms – with Burberry even producing a floral trench. Red is the signature colour but the flowers are bigger, bolder and more exotic: gerberas, gardenias, orchids and chrysanthemums. Dolce & Gabbana embroidered red sprigs of blooms in strategic positions over a sheer gauze black evening gown; Chanel and Oscar De La Renta placed so-real-you-can-pick-them artificial pink flowers around crisp white day dresses. It’s been a long time since spring has been so pretty.
As seen at: Oscar De La Renta, Chanel, Celine, Simone Rocha, Burberry, Michael Kors.
From left to right: Celine s/s 2015 (Pixelformula/SIPA/Rex); Dolce & Gabbana s/s 2015 (Vittorio Zunino Celotto/Getty Images); Chanel s/s 2015 (Pascal Le Segretain/Getty Images)
This year gingham, the choice for so many school summer dresses, was one of the biggest trends on the New York catwalk. Perhaps in homage to French siren Brigitte Bardot turning 80 – she got married in pink gingham – both Oscar De La Renta and Diane Von Fürstenberg created a fabulously sexy shorts suit in baby blue, while Bardot’s fellow Frenchman Joseph Altuzarra dazzled with a 1980s Alexis Colby power suit in the material. Michael Kors paired a full black gingham skirt with a sleek crop top.
As seen at: Altuzarra, Michael Kors, Oscar de la Renta, Bottega Veneta, Diane Von Fürstenberg.
From left to right: Diane Von Fürstenberg s/s 2015 (Peter Michael Dills/Getty Images); Michael Kors s/s 2015 (Peter Michael Dills/Getty Images for Michael Kors); Oscar de la Renta s/s 2015 (Slaven Vlasic/Getty Images)
A couple of seasons ago we were introduced to the concept of ‘double denim’ –with its rule of never wearing one shade head to toe. But fashion just threw the rule book all the way back to 1986. Stella McCartney, Chloé and Sonia Rykiel all produced denim boiler suits, but the more ladylike might prefer Stella’s denim pinafore, held together by another 2015 trend, buckles, or the stays of Gucci’s A-line denim dress. Gucci also teamed a Les-Mis-style military crop jacket with denim culottes – a revolution of sorts. For jean genius, though, look to Christopher Bailey of Burberry, who trimmed a plain denim jacket with ostrich feathers.
As seen at: Burberry, Chloé, Dolce & Gabbana, Fendi, Gucci, Sonia Rykiel, Stella McCartney
From left to right: Gucci s/s 2015 (Vittorio Zunino Celotto/Getty Images); Burberry Prorsum s/s 2015 (Pixelformula/SIPA/Rex); Stella McCartney s/s 2015 (David Fisher/Rex)
Shoulders and abs
It sounds more like a workout than a trend, but 2015 will continue last year’s vogue of revealing a toned bare midriff (or that’s the idea, anyway) between a matching bra top and full skirt. It’s now focused on evening wear, with Balenciaga and Balmain producing racy, sheer creations in black and red – an interesting alternative to the usual party suspect, the gown. The shoulder is the other body part of 2015 constantly on display, especially in eveningwear; exposing one or both, and in the case of designers like Thierry Mugler and Erdem, the midriff is cut out too. Colours are peach, lilac, pink; materials are diaphanous, draped, forgiving – essential if your trainer is not Tracy Anderson.
As seen at: Balenciaga, Balmain, Diane Von Fürstenberg, Erdem, Hermes, Marc Jacobs, Miu Miu, Mugler, Ralph Lauren, Sonia Rykiel, Stella McCartney, Valentino.
From left to right: Balenciaga s/s 2015 (Pixelformula/SIPA/Rex); Balmain s/s 2015 (Pascal Le Segretain/Getty Images); Erdem s/s 2015 (Tristan Fewings/Getty Images)
Spring marks the official fashion reinstatement of the trouser or pant suit – this time in any fabric: denim, crushed velvet, pyjama silk, suede, lilac tweed – shown by Chanel - or navy Mao-esque military style, inspired by Marc Jacobs. However, the sleekest way of wearing the suit is in the classic 1970s cut, with bootlegs or flares, as re-imagined by Pucci: in colours of mustard yellow or orange, teamed with oversized sunglasses and an American Hustle attitude. If it doesn’t suit you, opt for bottoms only. Ankle-length sailor culottes, baggy jodhpurs and even 1990s combats were catwalk favourites – the only style not for now is skinny.
As seen at: Balmain, Bottega Veneta, Chanel, Dior, Pucci, Fendi, Christopher Kane, Marc Jacobs, Sonia Rykiel
From left to right: Marc Jacobs s/s 2015 (Peter Michael Dills/Getty Images); Christian Dior s/s 2015 (Pascal Le Segretain/Getty Images); Pucci s/s 2015 (Pier Marco Tacca/Getty Images)
This is the year of the white nightgown – or dresses that closely resemble one. Think gothic heroines in flowing Victorian night attire, with high throats and voluminous leg o’mutton sleeves. Chanel paired white ruffled puritan collars with its signature striped shorts, while Erdem produced a wedding dress Miss Haversham would be proud to languish in. But with the latest Star Wars out soon, Princess Leia clearly has a say in shaping a space-age anti-trend. Echoes of her simple white roll neck tunic from the very first film in 1977 are everywhere –with Balenciaga producing a very Leia-inspired ensemble, right down to the hair.
As seen at: Chanel, Balenciaga, Dior, Erdem, Lanvin, Isabel Marant.
From left to right: Lanvin s/s 2015 (David Fisher/Rex); Chanel s/s 2015 (Pascal Le Segretain/Getty Images); Erdem s/s 2015 (Tristan Fewings/Getty Images)
Ruffles and fringing
The 1980s and 1970s meet, often on the same dress, as ruffles and fringing become the embellishments for Spring/Summer 2015. No longer is fringing on trousers just for the local rodeo, while hippy chic is embodied by Sonia Rykiel’s green and black off-the-shoulder gypsy dress. But the look isn’t just for casual – feathered and fringed flapper frocks set the latest trend for informal party wear. Tiers of ruffles could be seen on the Renaissance-inspired prints of Pucci and Valentino. Ruffling on tops, however, was kept discreet and away from the throat – the Elizabethans have yet to come back into fashion.
As seen at: Burberry, Celine, Pucci, Fendi, Isabel Marant, Sonia Rykiel, Valentino, Giambattista Valli.
From left to right: Burberry Prorsum s/s 2015 (Ian Gavan/Getty Images); Valentino s/s 2015 (Pascal Le Segretain/Getty Images); Sonia Rykiel s/s 2015 (Pascal Le Segretain/Getty Images)
The colour purple, and its muted hues, is the standout shade for 2015. Since youth stole lilac as a hair and tattoo colour, the shade has lost its Grandma associations and takes on the delicacy of the bloom that shares its name. It was most prominent at Chanel, where it infused herringbone tweed suits, as well as the label’s more psychedelic offerings. It’s the pastel of choice for coloured suede, as seen in Derek Lam’s show, while Burberry mixed hues of indigo, blue and lilac for its dreamy chiffon evening wear. The very adventurous can mix it with pale green and pale pink, in sheer Grecian fabrics, for evening, but it’s most wearable in summer coats and dresses.
As seen at Chanel, Dior, Derek Lam, Pucci, Miu Miu, Burberry, Valentino
From left to right: Chanel s/s 2015 (Rex); Burberry Prorsum s/s 2015 (Ian Gavan/Getty Images); Derek Lam s/s 2015 (JP Yim/Getty Images)
What women will wear in 2015
What women will wear in 2015